Englisch translation (this is an edited automatic Google translation)
As I stated in the previous story I wrote just before our Club's International Treffen in Kotten near Winterswijk I reassembled the gearbox. So if I could use the gearbox a few times I could test it and could use Coby to take me there. And then my Dynamo broke down. Now, you may think that is no reason not to go, because of the magneto ignition, but let me tell the story from the beginning. While Peter busied himself turning new bushes for the gearbox, I was busy to change the 6 Volt installation to a 12 Volt one, so I could use my GPS (for a number of you a dirty word). The GPS is a godsend for me, because when I make a turn 3 times in a row I'm lost and I am fully disorientated. Once I was on my way to Limburg, in the south of the Netherlands, when I crossed the border tot Belgium in the province of Noord Brabant, rode for half an hour in Belgium, until some time after I came upon a detour at roadworks in a Belgian town and again half an hour later I saw a sign Welcome to Noord Brabant (Netherlands), back where I came from. Somewhere I seem to have made a complete U-turn back north. It was a nice ride, that is true, and when I once again went the other way round it was going to be okay. But back to my story about the 12 Volt conversion of the generator. I read about it in the magazine of the Dutch AJS / Matchless club. The supplier of modern high tech electronics parts for classic motorcycles Hans Beck (www.beckelektronika.nl) in Delft wrote that the known 6 Volt Magdyno could be used to supply 12 Volt. He developed a voltage regulator which also ensures that the armature is not overcharged. In addition, he also provides LED Lighting and Halogen fittings for the old. The fittings are meant for a type of small halogen lamps of 10, 20 or 30Watt (I took one of 20 and one of 30 watts for high and and low beam). These halogen lamps are for sale at local DIY shops are warehouses (Gamma or Hema). Apart from the low power consumption, these lamps also have the advantage of being better resistant to the trembling of the classic motorcycle and give a lot more light than the old bulbs. The LED lamps he provides can be used in any conventional Miller and Lucas housing and are perhaps more expensive related to the old bulbs, but consume almost no power and wil keep lifelong. I have also purchased one of them, so driving with lights now perhaps will consume about a total of 21 watts, plus occasionally perhaps half Watt for the brake light. It uses super bright LEDs that give huge bright light and are not in the least comparable with the LED lamps with normal fittings that you sometimes see in Halfords for 8 Euro, but give a fantastic backlight, better even than standard 21/5W bulbs.
All new electrical components are assembled and connected to the new 12 volt battery. On the advice of Hans Beck, I connected a 6.5 Amps fuse, so that if something goes wrong the electronics are protected.
Then the time came to try and test the new installation. Hans gave me a digital Volt indicator, which shows the voltage by led indicators.
A test ride showed that the voltage remained relatively low, i.e. there was no or at least not enough charge. I thought of course I had done something wrong connecting the electronics. So back to Hans, who measured the voltage coming from the alternator. Nothing so. Then the dynamo open and then we saw that the armature had enormous play, which was probably the cause of not delivering current. So that was the cause for not taken Coby to the National Rally.
Would there have been no play, then there was no reason not to take Coby into action, but now it could be that the play would worsen by the swing of the armature. Since the generator is clamped on top of the magnet, it can not simply be omitted.
After the rally I took the alternator apart and saw two things that have not been noticed before. First, the axis of the armature at the location of the bearing was somewhat worn, which also explains the play. Secondly, there was a bump on the collector so that the brushes would not make good contact. How the bump came there is a mystery to me.
The last week of August there was a Vehikel fair that I visited. In summer it is always a combined car and motorcycle fair, which is both in the halls and on the outside (cattle)market place. There was a lot to see and also a few Enfields. But the best was that I found in a stall outside with all sorts of components a dynamo which was partially dismantled, after a haggle I could take it for 15 euro. It was obviously a gamble, but I thought I could always use only the dynamo casing as a spare when the generator would be in repair.
I have shown the problem of the old dynamo to Tjebbe Leenes (Theodole) from IJmuiden, better known as mister Lucas or the man with the bowler hat, who had a stall on the fair. He thought it very strange, and said that it would be difficult to repair. He suggested that I reassemble the old dynamo which he refurbished 6 years earlier and bring it to him so he could check it. About my new buy, he said that it could be a good armature. In any case the collector and the axle looked a lot better. "A good cleaning would do wonders" he said.
When I came home, I dismantled the new addition and started the cleaning and polishing of the collector. Looked a lot better right off.
Then I went on holiday for two weeks, and when I terurned I first mounted the newly acquired dynamo casing on the magnet so Coby could go on the road again, because I wanted to take her the annual National Veteran rally at Woerden where each year more than a 1000 two-wheelers with a birth date before 1970 will meet and where are a few Enfields present. Like every year it is a big party and I have seen a some other Enfields, of which the cafe racer Enfield India owned by Arie van der Pol most struck me (see accompanying photos).
But back again to the dynamo story. I did assemble the alternator, now equipped with the newly acquired anchor. Then did the simple test to see if the generator could work. Connect the D and F wires together and connect these with the + (plus) of a charged battery and generator casing with the - (minus). If everything is alright the dynamo will then run like an electric engine. After a hesitant start, due to the stiff balls from the large open bearing of the new addition, the generator began to hum nicely.
Once I knew it probably would work, I disassembled the large bearing and the gear on the other side and the same with the old one.Then exchanged them for the new anchor with new sealed bearings and a pretty nice looking gear mounted. The collector hood connected to the casing again. Yet for all safety I did try it as an engine again and again it began purring happy as a cat.
At last I could ride Coby again with a real generator. To fix the dynamo on top of the mageneto is a snap because you loosen just two clamps, get the dynamo casing out and slide the refurbished dynamo in. Then fix the nut on the drive strongly and put both wraps back on the terminals, connect the cables and you're ready for the test.
Petrol tap open, tickle and give one or two kicks and Coby comes into life. A bit of revving and the Voltmeter indicates that there is current. But what is that? Why does all the petrol spray from the float chamber? Quickly close the tap. Incontinence? That may be normal for some older ladies, but I think there have been enough problems recently and that this should be thorougly investigated. So open up the cover of the float chamber, so I can see the float working. Just start and revv and yes there he goes again. I can now see what happens. The float is clamped to the needle with a brass clip. For that reason there is a groove in the needle, but that is a little worn due to probably its more than 60 years long life and it doesn't keep the clip fixed. The entire float vibrates slowly along the needle upwards so that the gasoline supply is not stopped. Well, now what. I removed a small piece of an electrical connector and put this on the needle, so that the clip itself is now blocked by the 'connector'ring clamped on the needle. Fortunately, that works. I'm curious what I can write you guys next time.
Yet I was after a few test rides not satisfied. Then there was a charge and then not. So yet again an appointment with Hans Beck. En route, I got another short-circuit, the whole battery was drawn. The problem is that I work with those gently squeeze connectors, which you apply with a special set of pliers. In itself nothing wrong with that, but I think I can't get it right. I once bought a set with a number of connectors and a kind of flat set of pliers at the DIY. But as a result the connector I fit is too loose or I will destroy it when I squeeze. Hans had a different kind of pliers for that, in any case they worked better, I bough a similar set at the December Vehikel, so I just can do it right in future (I hope). We put the battery on a charger, to be sure the voltage regulator was disassembled and checked (perfect) and Hans provided all cables with new connectors. After the battery was charged again slightly, we checked with the engine running the voltage from the generator and it was more than enough. Then the regulator in position again and checked it connected with the engine running and there was a neatly voltage of about 13.8 V. Suffcient to charge the battery. The previous generator repair took me almost 400 guilders and now I'm all set for about 20 Euro.
2007 oktober - WD/CO/B elektriek 3
oktober 2007
Zoals ik in het vorige verhaal schreef had ik net voor ons Internationale Clubtreffen in Kotten bij Winterswijk de versnellingsbak weer in elkaar. Dus wanneer ik de versnellingsbak nog een paar keer goed zou kunnen uittesten kon ik met Coby naar het treffen kunnen. En toen ging mijn Dynamo kapot. Nu denk je misschien dat is geen reden om niet te gaan, vanwege de magneet ontsteking, maar laat me het verhaal vanaf het begin vertellen. Terwijl Peter bezig was nieuwe bussen voor de versnellingsbak te draaien, was ik bezig om de 6 Volt installatie om te bouwen naar een 12 Volt zodat ik ook mijn GPS, voor een aantal van jullie een vies woord, zou kunnen aansluiten. De GPS is voor mij een uitkomst, omdat wanneer ik 3 keer een bocht om ben gegaan ik mijn hele oriëntatie kwijt ben. Ik ben eens op weg naar Zuid Limburg bij Brabant de Belgisch grens overgegaan, heb een half uur in België gereden, totdat ik enige tijd na een wegomlegging in een Belgisch stadje een bord met Welkom in Noord-Brabant zag staan. Het was een mooi ritje dat wel en toen ik eenmaal weer was omgekeerd ging het overigens wel weer goed. Maar terug naar mijn verhaal over de 12 Volt ombouw van de dynamo. Ik had hierover gelezen in het clubblad van de AJS/Matchless club. De leverancier van moderne high tech elektronica onderdelen voor klassieke motoren Hans Beck (www.beckelektronika.nl) in Delft schreef daarin dat de bekende 6 Volt Magdyno gewoon voor het leveren van 12 Volt gebruikt kon worden. Hij had daarvoor een spanningsregelaar ontwikkelt die er tevens voor zorgt dat het anker niet overbelast wordt. Daarnaast levert hij ook LED en Halogeenverlichting voor in de oude fittingen. Het zijn een soort adapters waar kleine halogeenlampjes van 10, 20 of 30Watt in gaan (ik nam die van 20 en 30 Watt voor dim- en grootlicht). Deze lampjes zijn zo te koop bij Gamma of Hema. Naast het beperkte stroomverbruik hebben deze lampjes ook nog het voordeel dat ze beter tegen het trillen van de klassieke motorfiets kunnen en veel meer licht geven dan de oude gloeilampjes. De LED verlichting heeft hij ook voor allerlei klassieke Miller en Lucas achterlichten en zijn in verhouding misschien duurder maar vragen bijna geen stroom en gaan levenslang mee. Die heb ik dus ook aangeschaft, zodat het rijden met verlichting nu misschien in totaal 21 Watt zal kosten, plus af en toe misschien een half Wattje voor het remlicht. Er wordt gebruik gemaakt van super bright LED's die enorm veel helder licht geven en niet vergelijkbaar zijn met de LED lampen met normale fittingen die je wel eens bij Halfords ziet voor 8 Euro.
Alle nieuwe elektrische onderdelen zijn door mij gemonteerd en aan de nieuwe 12 Volt accu aangesloten. Op aanraden van Hans Beck heb ik er wel een 6,5A zekering tussen geschakeld, zodat als er wat mis gaat de elektronica beschermd is.
Toen was het moment daar om één en ander te testen. Ik had van Hans daarvoor een digitale Volt indicator gekregen, die met ledjes de spanning aangeeft.
Bij een proefritje bleek dat de spanning vrij laag bleef, m.a.w. er werd niets of in ieder geval niet genoeg geladen. Ik dacht natuurlijk meteen dat ik de elektronica niet goed had aangesloten of dat er iets mis mee was. Dus terug naar Hans, die de spanning ging meten die uit de dynamo kwam. Niets dus. Daarna even de dynamo open maken en toen kwam aan het licht dat het anker ontzettend veel speling had, hetgeen waarschijnlijk de oorzaak was van het niet leveren van stroom.
Zou er geen speling geweest zijn, dan was er geen reden geweest om niet met Coby naar het treffen te gaan, maar nu zou het kunnen dat de kwaal zou verergeren door het slingeren van het anker. Aangezien de dynamo bovenop de magneet is geklemd, kan hij ook niet zomaar worden weggelaten.
Na het treffen heb ik de dynamo uit elkaar gehaald en zag twee dingen, die er niet goed uitzagen. Ten eerste was de as van de anker op de plaats van het lagertje nogal uitgesleten, hetgeen ook de speling verklaart. Ten tweede zat er op de collector een hobbel waardoor de koolborstels geen goed contact zouden maken. Hoe de hobbel daar is gekomen is mij een raadsel.
De laatste week van Augustus was er weer een Vehikel waar ik naar toe ben geweest. In de zomer is het altijd een gecombineerde auto en motoren beurs, die zich zowel in de hallen als op het buitenterrein afspeelt. Er was weer veel te zien en ook enkele Enfields, waarvan hier de foto's. Maar het mooiste was dat ik op het buitenterrein bij een stal met allerhande onderdelen een gedeeltelijk ontmantelde dynamo vond, die ik na afdingen voor 15 Euro mocht meeneem. Het was natuurlijk een gok, maar ik dacht dat ik ook alleen aan het dynamo huis al wat zou hebben als plaatsvervanger van de dynamo wanneer deze in reparatie zou zijn.
Ik heb het probleem van de oude dynamo ook op het Vehikel aan Theodole (Tjebbe) Leenes uit IJmuiden , beter bekend als mister Lucas of de man met de bolhoed, laten zien. Hij vond het heel vreemd, maar dacht dat reparatie wel moeilijk zou worden. Hij stelde voor dat ik de oude dynamo, die hij zo'n 6 jaar daarvoor had gereviseerd, weer in elkaar zou zetten en bij hem zou laten controleren. Van mijn nieuwe aanwinst zei hij dat het anker best eens goed zou kunnen zijn. In ieder geval zagen de collector en de as er een stuk beter uit. Een goede poetsbeurt zou wonderen doen., zo zei hij.
Toen ik thuis kwam heb ik direct de nieuwe aanwinst uit elkaar gehaald en ben met het schoonmaken en polijsten van de collector begonnen. Ziet er gelijk weer een stuk beter uit.
Daarna ben ik twee weken met vakantie geweest en toen ik terugkwam heb ik eerst het nieuw verworven dynamohuis op de magneet gemonteerd zodat ik Coby weer zou kunnen uitlaten, want ik wilde haar wel meenemen naar het jaarlijkse Nationaal Veteraan treffen in Woerden waar jaarlijks zo'n 1000 tweewielers met een bouwjaar van voor 1970 bij elkaar komen en waar onwaarschijnlijk weinig Enfields aanwezig zijn. Ook dit jaar weer een groot feest en ik wel een paar andere Enfields gezien, waarvan de India Enfield caféracer van Arie van der Pol het meest opviel (zie bijgaande foto's).
Maar om weer even terug te komen op het dynamoverhaal. Ik heb de dynamo weer in elkaar gezet, nu voorzien van het nieuw verworven anker. Daarna de simpele test gedaan om te zien of de dynamo zou kunnen werken. Verbind daartoe de D en F draden met elkaar en sluit een geladen accu aan met de plus op deze combinatie en de min op het dynamo huis. Als het goed is gaat de dynamo dan draaien als een elektromotor. Na een aarzelende start, te wijten aan het stroef lopen van het grote open lager van de nieuwe aanwinst, begon de dynamo mooi te zoemen.
Toen ik eenmaal wist dat het waarschijnlijk wel goed zou komen heb ik van de nieuwe aanwinst het open grote lager en het tandwiel afgemonteerd en hetzelfde met het gesloten lager en tandwiel van het oude anker. Daarna de spullen verwisseld en het nieuw anker voorzien van mooi gesloten lagers en een mooi tandwiel weer gemonteerd. Ook de kap om het collector huis weer aangesloten. Toch voor alle zekerheid nog even als motortje proberen en gelukkig nog steeds spinnend als een kat.
Eindelijk kon ik Coby weer voorzien van een echte dynamo. Dat is een fluitje van een cent, want je maakt gewoon twee klembanden los, haalt het losse dynamo huis er uit en de echte dynamo schuif je er zo in. Dan de moer in de aandrijfkast er weer op draaien en beide klembanden weer vastklemmen, de kabels aansluiten en klaar voor de test.
Benzinekraantje open, even vlotteren en één of twee trappen en Coby komt tot leven. Een beetje gassen en ja hoor de Voltmeter geeft aan dat er bijgeladen wordt. Maar wat is dat? Waarom spuit er allemaal benzine uit de vlotterkamer? Snel de kraan dicht. Incontinentie? Dat is misschien normaal voor wat oudere dames, maar ik vind dat er genoeg probleempjes zijn geweest de afgelopen tijd en dat dit even onderzocht moet worden. Dus even het dekseltje los van de vlotterkamer, zodat je de vlotter kan zien werken. Even starten en gasgeven en ja daar gaat-ie weer. Ik zie nu wel wat er gebeurd. De vlotter wordt door een koperen klemmetje aan de naald vastgeklemd. Daarvoor zit er een groefje in de naald, maar het groefje is waarschijnlijk in de loop van haar meer dan 60 jaar lange leven een beetje uitgesleten en houdt het klemmetje niet goed vast. De hele vlotter trilt langzaam langs de naald omhoog zodat de benzine toevoer niet wordt gestopt. Tja, wat nu. Ik heb een klein stukje van een elektrische connector afgehaald en over de naald naar beneden geschoven, zodat het klemmetje nu zelf weer wordt tegengehouden door het op de naald geklemde ringetje. Gelukkig dat werkt ook weer. Ik ben benieuwd wat ik jullie een volgende keer kan melden.
Toch was ik na een paar proefritjes niet tevreden. Dan werd er weer wel bijgeladen en dan weer niet. Dus toch maar weer een afspraak met Hans Beck gemaakt. Onderweg kreeg ik nog een kortsluiting waardoor de hele accu leeg werd getrokken. Het probleem is dat ik werk met van die knijp connectortjes, die je met een speciale tang op de kabels knijpt. Op zich niets mis mee, maar mij lukt het niet goed. Ik heb daar ooit eens een setje voor gekocht met een aantal knijp connectoren en een nogal platte tang in zo'n rommelbak bij de bouwmarkt. Maar of de connector zit te los of ik knijp hem kapot. Hans had daar een ander soort tang voor die in ieder geval beter werkte, die ik op het december Vehikel ook gekocht heb, zodat ik het straks zelf ook goed kan doen (hoop ik). We hebben de accu onder de oplader gezet, voor alle zekerheid de spanningsregelaar uitgemonteerd en doorgemeten (perfect) en Hans heeft alle betrokken kabels van nieuwe connectoren voorzien. Nadat de accu weer enigszins was opgeladen is met draaiende motor de spanning gemeten die uit de dynamo kwam en deze was ruim voldoende. Daarna de regelaar weer aangesloten en opnieuw meten met draaiende motor en er kwam netjes een spanning uit van ca. 13,8 V. Voldoende om de accu bij te laden. De vorige dynamo reparatie kostte me bijna 400 gulden en nu ben ik voor zo'n 20 Euro klaar.
Englisch translation (this is an edited automatic Google translation)
As I stated in the previous story I wrote just before our Club's International Treffen in Kotten near Winterswijk I reassembled the gearbox. So if I could use the gearbox a few times I could test it and could use Coby to take me there. And then my Dynamo broke down. Now, you may think that is no reason not to go, because of the magneto ignition, but let me tell the story from the beginning. While Peter busied himself turning new bushes for the gearbox, I was busy to change the 6 Volt installation to a 12 Volt one, so I could use my GPS (for a number of you a dirty word). The GPS is a godsend for me, because when I make a turn 3 times in a row I'm lost and I am fully disorientated. Once I was on my way to Limburg, in the south of the Netherlands, when I crossed the border tot Belgium in the province of Noord Brabant, rode for half an hour in Belgium, until some time after I came upon a detour at roadworks in a Belgian town and again half an hour later I saw a sign Welcome to Noord Brabant (Netherlands), back where I came from. Somewhere I seem to have made a complete U-turn back north. It was a nice ride, that is true, and when I once again went the other way round it was going to be okay. But back to my story about the 12 Volt conversion of the generator. I read about it in the magazine of the Dutch AJS / Matchless club. The supplier of modern high tech electronics parts for classic motorcycles Hans Beck (www.beckelektronika.nl) in Delft wrote that the known 6 Volt Magdyno could be used to supply 12 Volt. He developed a voltage regulator which also ensures that the armature is not overcharged. In addition, he also provides LED Lighting and Halogen fittings for the old. The fittings are meant for a type of small halogen lamps of 10, 20 or 30Watt (I took one of 20 and one of 30 watts for high and and low beam). These halogen lamps are for sale at local DIY shops are warehouses (Gamma or Hema). Apart from the low power consumption, these lamps also have the advantage of being better resistant to the trembling of the classic motorcycle and give a lot more light than the old bulbs. The LED lamps he provides can be used in any conventional Miller and Lucas housing and are perhaps more expensive related to the old bulbs, but consume almost no power and wil keep lifelong. I have also purchased one of them, so driving with lights now perhaps will consume about a total of 21 watts, plus occasionally perhaps half Watt for the brake light. It uses super bright LEDs that give huge bright light and are not in the least comparable with the LED lamps with normal fittings that you sometimes see in Halfords for 8 Euro, but give a fantastic backlight, better even than standard 21/5W bulbs.
All new electrical components are assembled and connected to the new 12 volt battery. On the advice of Hans Beck, I connected a 6.5 Amps fuse, so that if something goes wrong the electronics are protected.
Then the time came to try and test the new installation. Hans gave me a digital Volt indicator, which shows the voltage by led indicators.
A test ride showed that the voltage remained relatively low, i.e. there was no or at least not enough charge. I thought of course I had done something wrong connecting the electronics. So back to Hans, who measured the voltage coming from the alternator. Nothing so. Then the dynamo open and then we saw that the armature had enormous play, which was probably the cause of not delivering current. So that was the cause for not taken Coby to the National Rally.
Would there have been no play, then there was no reason not to take Coby into action, but now it could be that the play would worsen by the swing of the armature. Since the generator is clamped on top of the magnet, it can not simply be omitted.
After the rally I took the alternator apart and saw two things that have not been noticed before. First, the axis of the armature at the location of the bearing was somewhat worn, which also explains the play. Secondly, there was a bump on the collector so that the brushes would not make good contact. How the bump came there is a mystery to me.
The last week of August there was a Vehikel fair that I visited. In summer it is always a combined car and motorcycle fair, which is both in the halls and on the outside (cattle)market place. There was a lot to see and also a few Enfields. But the best was that I found in a stall outside with all sorts of components a dynamo which was partially dismantled, after a haggle I could take it for 15 euro. It was obviously a gamble, but I thought I could always use only the dynamo casing as a spare when the generator would be in repair.
I have shown the problem of the old dynamo to Tjebbe Leenes (Theodole) from IJmuiden, better known as mister Lucas or the man with the bowler hat, who had a stall on the fair. He thought it very strange, and said that it would be difficult to repair. He suggested that I reassemble the old dynamo which he refurbished 6 years earlier and bring it to him so he could check it. About my new buy, he said that it could be a good armature. In any case the collector and the axle looked a lot better. "A good cleaning would do wonders" he said.
When I came home, I dismantled the new addition and started the cleaning and polishing of the collector. Looked a lot better right off.
Then I went on holiday for two weeks, and when I terurned I first mounted the newly acquired dynamo casing on the magnet so Coby could go on the road again, because I wanted to take her the annual National Veteran rally at Woerden where each year more than a 1000 two-wheelers with a birth date before 1970 will meet and where are a few Enfields present. Like every year it is a big party and I have seen a some other Enfields, of which the cafe racer Enfield India owned by Arie van der Pol most struck me (see accompanying photos).
But back again to the dynamo story. I did assemble the alternator, now equipped with the newly acquired anchor. Then did the simple test to see if the generator could work. Connect the D and F wires together and connect these with the + (plus) of a charged battery and generator casing with the - (minus). If everything is alright the dynamo will then run like an electric engine. After a hesitant start, due to the stiff balls from the large open bearing of the new addition, the generator began to hum nicely.
Once I knew it probably would work, I disassembled the large bearing and the gear on the other side and the same with the old one.Then exchanged them for the new anchor with new sealed bearings and a pretty nice looking gear mounted. The collector hood connected to the casing again. Yet for all safety I did try it as an engine again and again it began purring happy as a cat.
At last I could ride Coby again with a real generator. To fix the dynamo on top of the mageneto is a snap because you loosen just two clamps, get the dynamo casing out and slide the refurbished dynamo in. Then fix the nut on the drive strongly and put both wraps back on the terminals, connect the cables and you're ready for the test.
Petrol tap open, tickle and give one or two kicks and Coby comes into life. A bit of revving and the Voltmeter indicates that there is current. But what is that? Why does all the petrol spray from the float chamber? Quickly close the tap. Incontinence? That may be normal for some older ladies, but I think there have been enough problems recently and that this should be thorougly investigated. So open up the cover of the float chamber, so I can see the float working. Just start and revv and yes there he goes again. I can now see what happens. The float is clamped to the needle with a brass clip. For that reason there is a groove in the needle, but that is a little worn due to probably its more than 60 years long life and it doesn't keep the clip fixed. The entire float vibrates slowly along the needle upwards so that the gasoline supply is not stopped. Well, now what. I removed a small piece of an electrical connector and put this on the needle, so that the clip itself is now blocked by the 'connector'ring clamped on the needle. Fortunately, that works. I'm curious what I can write you guys next time.
Yet I was after a few test rides not satisfied. Then there was a charge and then not. So yet again an appointment with Hans Beck. En route, I got another short-circuit, the whole battery was drawn. The problem is that I work with those gently squeeze connectors, which you apply with a special set of pliers. In itself nothing wrong with that, but I think I can't get it right. I once bought a set with a number of connectors and a kind of flat set of pliers at the DIY. But as a result the connector I fit is too loose or I will destroy it when I squeeze. Hans had a different kind of pliers for that, in any case they worked better, I bough a similar set at the December Vehikel, so I just can do it right in future (I hope). We put the battery on a charger, to be sure the voltage regulator was disassembled and checked (perfect) and Hans provided all cables with new connectors. After the battery was charged again slightly, we checked with the engine running the voltage from the generator and it was more than enough. Then the regulator in position again and checked it connected with the engine running and there was a neatly voltage of about 13.8 V. Suffcient to charge the battery. The previous generator repair took me almost 400 guilders and now I'm all set for about 20 Euro.
Englisch translation (this is an edited automatic Google translation)
As I stated in the previous story I wrote just before our Club's International Treffen in Kotten near Winterswijk I reassembled the gearbox. So if I could use the gearbox a few times I could test it and could use Coby to take me there. And then my Dynamo broke down. Now, you may think that is no reason not to go, because of the magneto ignition, but let me tell the story from the beginning. While Peter busied himself turning new bushes for the gearbox, I was busy to change the 6 Volt installation to a 12 Volt one, so I could use my GPS (for a number of you a dirty word). The GPS is a godsend for me, because when I make a turn 3 times in a row I'm lost and I am fully disorientated. Once I was on my way to Limburg, in the south of the Netherlands, when I crossed the border tot Belgium in the province of Noord Brabant, rode for half an hour in Belgium, until some time after I came upon a detour at roadworks in a Belgian town and again half an hour later I saw a sign Welcome to Noord Brabant (Netherlands), back where I came from. Somewhere I seem to have made a complete U-turn back north. It was a nice ride, that is true, and when I once again went the other way round it was going to be okay. But back to my story about the 12 Volt conversion of the generator. I read about it in the magazine of the Dutch AJS / Matchless club. The supplier of modern high tech electronics parts for classic motorcycles Hans Beck (www.beckelektronika.nl) in Delft wrote that the known 6 Volt Magdyno could be used to supply 12 Volt. He developed a voltage regulator which also ensures that the armature is not overcharged. In addition, he also provides LED Lighting and Halogen fittings for the old. The fittings are meant for a type of small halogen lamps of 10, 20 or 30Watt (I took one of 20 and one of 30 watts for high and and low beam). These halogen lamps are for sale at local DIY shops are warehouses (Gamma or Hema). Apart from the low power consumption, these lamps also have the advantage of being better resistant to the trembling of the classic motorcycle and give a lot more light than the old bulbs. The LED lamps he provides can be used in any conventional Miller and Lucas housing and are perhaps more expensive related to the old bulbs, but consume almost no power and wil keep lifelong. I have also purchased one of them, so driving with lights now perhaps will consume about a total of 21 watts, plus occasionally perhaps half Watt for the brake light. It uses super bright LEDs that give huge bright light and are not in the least comparable with the LED lamps with normal fittings that you sometimes see in Halfords for 8 Euro, but give a fantastic backlight, better even than standard 21/5W bulbs.
All new electrical components are assembled and connected to the new 12 volt battery. On the advice of Hans Beck, I connected a 6.5 Amps fuse, so that if something goes wrong the electronics are protected.
Then the time came to try and test the new installation. Hans gave me a digital Volt indicator, which shows the voltage by led indicators.
A test ride showed that the voltage remained relatively low, i.e. there was no or at least not enough charge. I thought of course I had done something wrong connecting the electronics. So back to Hans, who measured the voltage coming from the alternator. Nothing so. Then the dynamo open and then we saw that the armature had enormous play, which was probably the cause of not delivering current. So that was the cause for not taken Coby to the National Rally.
Would there have been no play, then there was no reason not to take Coby into action, but now it could be that the play would worsen by the swing of the armature. Since the generator is clamped on top of the magnet, it can not simply be omitted.
After the rally I took the alternator apart and saw two things that have not been noticed before. First, the axis of the armature at the location of the bearing was somewhat worn, which also explains the play. Secondly, there was a bump on the collector so that the brushes would not make good contact. How the bump came there is a mystery to me.
The last week of August there was a Vehikel fair that I visited. In summer it is always a combined car and motorcycle fair, which is both in the halls and on the outside (cattle)market place. There was a lot to see and also a few Enfields. But the best was that I found in a stall outside with all sorts of components a dynamo which was partially dismantled, after a haggle I could take it for 15 euro. It was obviously a gamble, but I thought I could always use only the dynamo casing as a spare when the generator would be in repair.
I have shown the problem of the old dynamo to Tjebbe Leenes (Theodole) from IJmuiden, better known as mister Lucas or the man with the bowler hat, who had a stall on the fair. He thought it very strange, and said that it would be difficult to repair. He suggested that I reassemble the old dynamo which he refurbished 6 years earlier and bring it to him so he could check it. About my new buy, he said that it could be a good armature. In any case the collector and the axle looked a lot better. "A good cleaning would do wonders" he said.
When I came home, I dismantled the new addition and started the cleaning and polishing of the collector. Looked a lot better right off.
Then I went on holiday for two weeks, and when I terurned I first mounted the newly acquired dynamo casing on the magnet so Coby could go on the road again, because I wanted to take her the annual National Veteran rally at Woerden where each year more than a 1000 two-wheelers with a birth date before 1970 will meet and where are a few Enfields present. Like every year it is a big party and I have seen a some other Enfields, of which the cafe racer Enfield India owned by Arie van der Pol most struck me (see accompanying photos).
But back again to the dynamo story. I did assemble the alternator, now equipped with the newly acquired anchor. Then did the simple test to see if the generator could work. Connect the D and F wires together and connect these with the + (plus) of a charged battery and generator casing with the - (minus). If everything is alright the dynamo will then run like an electric engine. After a hesitant start, due to the stiff balls from the large open bearing of the new addition, the generator began to hum nicely.
Once I knew it probably would work, I disassembled the large bearing and the gear on the other side and the same with the old one.Then exchanged them for the new anchor with new sealed bearings and a pretty nice looking gear mounted. The collector hood connected to the casing again. Yet for all safety I did try it as an engine again and again it began purring happy as a cat.
At last I could ride Coby again with a real generator. To fix the dynamo on top of the mageneto is a snap because you loosen just two clamps, get the dynamo casing out and slide the refurbished dynamo in. Then fix the nut on the drive strongly and put both wraps back on the terminals, connect the cables and you're ready for the test.
Petrol tap open, tickle and give one or two kicks and Coby comes into life. A bit of revving and the Voltmeter indicates that there is current. But what is that? Why does all the petrol spray from the float chamber? Quickly close the tap. Incontinence? That may be normal for some older ladies, but I think there have been enough problems recently and that this should be thorougly investigated. So open up the cover of the float chamber, so I can see the float working. Just start and revv and yes there he goes again. I can now see what happens. The float is clamped to the needle with a brass clip. For that reason there is a groove in the needle, but that is a little worn due to probably its more than 60 years long life and it doesn't keep the clip fixed. The entire float vibrates slowly along the needle upwards so that the gasoline supply is not stopped. Well, now what. I removed a small piece of an electrical connector and put this on the needle, so that the clip itself is now blocked by the 'connector'ring clamped on the needle. Fortunately, that works. I'm curious what I can write you guys next time.
Yet I was after a few test rides not satisfied. Then there was a charge and then not. So yet again an appointment with Hans Beck. En route, I got another short-circuit, the whole battery was drawn. The problem is that I work with those gently squeeze connectors, which you apply with a special set of pliers. In itself nothing wrong with that, but I think I can't get it right. I once bought a set with a number of connectors and a kind of flat set of pliers at the DIY. But as a result the connector I fit is too loose or I will destroy it when I squeeze. Hans had a different kind of pliers for that, in any case they worked better, I bough a similar set at the December Vehikel, so I just can do it right in future (I hope). We put the battery on a charger, to be sure the voltage regulator was disassembled and checked (perfect) and Hans provided all cables with new connectors. After the battery was charged again slightly, we checked with the engine running the voltage from the generator and it was more than enough. Then the regulator in position again and checked it connected with the engine running and there was a neatly voltage of about 13.8 V. Suffcient to charge the battery. The previous generator repair took me almost 400 guilders and now I'm all set for about 20 Euro.
